If we consider London as the innovative hub where incredible young talents keep on delivering awe inspiring creations with astonishing diversity, Milan would be the stage where some of the world’s most established fashion houses come to show recently a certain focus on craftsmanship and artistry that is becoming more and more a key positioning in the market. Even when it is perhaps a bit naive to speak in such broad terms, the fact is that when it comes to jewellery and accessories, Milan is keen to less experimentation than London and is never a disappointment for those expecting to see here some of the most luxurious design proposals. This season was no exception and considering that accessories play nowadays such an essential role in sales revenues for brands, there were some bold ideas being presented throughout the week.
For a start, a certain nostalgia took place. DSquared2 brought us back the glitter of the forties in a sparkling and eye-catching jewellery collection where drop earrings, necklaces and chain-linked brooches were styled to perfection. Going further back in time, Dolce & Gabbana continued their ecclesiastical procession, exploring Byzantine imagery from where rosaries with large crucifixes, beautiful chandelier earrings and exquisitely adorned royal tiaras were to be seen.
Opposite the historians so to speak, Roberto Cavalli offered beautifully crafted and very sculptural insecta, roses and snakes compositions, while his Just Cavalli line introduced elegant Buthan inspired nomadic style necklaces – that we happen to spot also at Matthew Williamson. Yet there was also fur, leather, vinyl and dauntless punk-fetishist aesthetics all along. Fendi brought us some soft furry accessories very much in line with the house’s insignia (Fun Furs) and Gianfranco Ferré presented a minimal-meets-tribal leather collar that accompanied each look of the collection. Gucci and Versace – for the most part as expected – unveiled a sensuous femme fatale that seduced fiercely with stunning spiked metal and plastic neck and wrist pieces.
DSquared2 – Drop Earrings, Chain-linked Brooches.
DSquared2 – Necklace.
DSquared2 – Necklace, Earrings.
Fendi – Cuff.
Emporio Armani – Earrings.
Emporio Armani – Brooch.
Gucci – Necklace.
Gucci – Cuff/Bracelet.
Dolce & Gabbana – Earrings, Tiara.
Dolce & Gabbana – Earrings, Crucifix Rosarium Necklace.
Dolce & Gabbana – Earrings.
Versace – Spiked Choker.
Versace – Spiked Bracelet.
Versace – Long Studs, Neck and Body adornment.
Just Cavalli – Neckpiece.
Gianfranco Ferré – Collar.
Iceberg – Choker.
Roberto Cavalli – Cuff.
Roberto Cavalli – Earrings, Necklace.
Giorgio Armani – Cuff, Ring.
Giorgio Armani – Necklace.
Giogio Armani – Choker.
Dsquared2, Gucci, Fendi, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana – Fillippo Fior
Just Cavalli, Emporio Armani, Gianfranco Ferré, Giorgio Armani – Yannis Vlamos
Iceberg – Monica Feudi
Roberto Cavalli – Marcus Tondo