Due to the fact that many designers and labels not based in France choose to present their collections in Paris making for a very diverse and relatively long schedule, the jewellery proposals to be found here are always extremely heterogenous. From models in bejewelled cages to the more commercial offers, Paris doesn’t seem to let itself be easily defined, at least when we look back at the strong identities of London and Milan. Turning this diversity into a strength, we often found ourselves more than overwhelmed during its six days of shows.
Loud in their use of the written word, Alber Elbaz’s playful designs for Lanvin can be counted among the most interesting jewellery propositions for this season. Happy, Cool, Love and Help were the messages brought forward, and those words were either worked to large size single pieces of metal typography or presented as mid reliefs that were put on enameled bases and paired with thick, heavy chains and the occasional large sized insects brooches. Similar bulky weave chains were used by Chanel in large silver metal necklaces, bangles and bracelets.
Another fantastic moment was Sarah Burton’s collection for McQueen, indeed beyond stunning. Albeit a rather short collection of 10 models presented, it was impressive in all its fashion erudition and self-indulgent luxury. Models walked in exquisitely pearled head cages and wore a very unique half-knuckle-rings half-fingers-glove hybrid. An alternative and also atypical hand piece could be found too at Maxime Simoens first ready-to-wear show.
Asian and ethnical influences were largely seen as well. At Kenzo, Delfina Delletrez was influenced from recent travels to Nepalese and Chinese temples and introduced some lovely shaped earrings and cuffs while Manish Arora let himself again inspire from the ornamental richnesses of his Indian roots in an opulent show of beautiful traditional bridal designs – you can read our post on his S/S 2013 collection here.
Dries Van Noten presented a small and subtle crystal jewellery collection that went from the classical beaded close fit necklace to very peculiar earpieces that covered the whole lobe and helix. Other pieces included extra sized and also colourless scorpion and lizard brooches. The same translucent aesthetics could as well be found turned into beautiful chandelier earrings at Olivier Ruisteng’s exuberant show for Balmain.
Céline showed very minimalist neckpieces that had large spheres fixed to metal collars circling closely the neck as a kind of planetary disk while Giambattista Valli had slightly oversized rough metal cuffs with raw unpolished stones attached that are surely destined to be best sellers.
When it comes to the polemical show of the season, Saint Laurent saw many of the models being styled with a rather classic lustrous pearls necklace that ended up being combined with a complex of chains and charms in a very grunge and very Slimane rebellious arrangement. A symbol perhaps for the subversive tone of the collection and its critical reception afterwards?
Lanvin – Necklaces.
Lanvin – Necklaces, Brooches.
Alexander McQueen – Bejewelled Cage.
Alexander McQueen – Knuckles Ring/Fingers Glove.
Louis Vuitton – Necklace.
Maxime Simoens – Neckpiece.
Maxime Simoens – Handpiece.
Saint Laurent – Pearls and Charms Necklace.
Saint Laurent – Pearls and Charms bracelet.
Manish Arora – Necklace, Nose Ring, Earrings, Headpiece.
Manish Arora – Bangle, Ring.
Giambattista Valli – Cuff.
Giambattista Valli – Cuff.
Dries Van Noten – Necklace.
Dries Van Noten – Brooch.
Dries Van Noten – Earpiece.
Balmain – Earrings.
Chanel – Bangles.
Vivienne Westwood – Earrings.
Vivienne Westwood – Earring.
Chloé – Ear Cuff.
Lanvin, Maxime Simoens – Marcus Tondo / Chloé – Alessandro Viero / Giambattista Valli, Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Dior, Balmain, Saint Laurent – Gianni Pucci / Kenzo, Dries Van Noten, Manish Arora, Louis Vuitton – Yannis Vlamos / Saint Laurent – Michelle Moroso / Céline, Dior, Balmain – Monica Feudi