Catwalk Reviews

Jewellery Highlights from the Catwalk – Resort Collections 2014

Resort collections are what many call a season within retail seasons, filling the gap between the Spring/Summer collections arriving around February and the Autumn/Winter clothing, available from August/September onwards. They do pass quite unnoticed yet what makes these collections so special that we would want to introduce them a little more in detail, is the fact that they have a story behind them, and one that not only serves as an inspiration for the collections themselves, but that actually informs silhouettes, colours, textures and their overall look and feel.

Bridging summer and winter, resort collections were originally designed for wealthy customers planning their escape from cold winter days by travelling to sunny destinations, with many of them opting to go on cruises, hence the alternative name, collection cruise or croisiére in French. In the 19th Century and still in the beginning of the 20th, travelling was a rather lengthy and costly leisure, meaning that many of the jet-set travellers opted often for longer stays in their chosen destinations. Naturally, sunnier climates bring the need for different wardrobes, and given the difficulties of finding summer items in winter and also because the use of clothing from past seasons was out of question for this particularly demanding target consumer, the development of mid-winter or trans-seasonal collections made perfect sense for many brands, especially for those in the luxury sector.

Nowadays, even when everybody is traveling everywhere, every time, resort collections are still imbued with that spirit of the wealthy traveller longing for summery locations, so the clothes are kept usually light and comfortable. Resort or Cruise collections have also a longer in-store life cycle lasting usually from November to May, so they are designed with the principle of appealing to a broader clientele. According to some designers recently, this commercial approach turns out to be quite a substantial source of revenue when compared to the main lines which remain for now a showcase of items that convey more blatantly the identity of the brands.

Resort clothing collections have indeed a very charming story behind them, and many of the jewellery pieces that we came across this season did conveyed an unhurried and relaxed feel, translated here into plenty of extended lenghts like in Chanel’s laid-back pearls and metal necklaces or Donna Karan’s beautiful gold-plated and extra-long one-ear-earrings. Collars were also widely seen, again Chanel presenting some dazzling buckle chokers and Michael Kors, somehow unexpectedly, bringing in some S&M inspired acrylic chokers and cuffs – padlock included. Big statement chain-link necklaces made more than one appearance over at Fendi, Lanvin, Givenchy and both of Cavalli’s collections and some bejewelled knits and shirts could also be spotted at Burberry, Lela Rose and Matthew Williamson – that notwithstanding not being jewellery in its usual definition, are included here as gorgeous cross-category pieces.

Shown below, our highlights of the season.

Note: This post will be continously updated until end of the season.

UPDATED 14.6.2013: Marni
UPDATED 20.6.2013: Roberto Cavalli
UPDATED 25.06.2013: Vionnet; Saint Laurent
UPDATE 29.06.2013: Dsquared2

balenciaga 2

Balenciaga – Neckpiece.balenciaga

Balenciaga – Earrings.

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Donna Karan – Neckpiece.donna karan

Donna Karan – Earpiece.

chanel

Chanel – Necklace and Earrings. Photography: Yoshi Okamoto.

chanel 5

Chanel – Earrings and Choker. Photography: Yoshi Okamoto.

chanel 8

Chanel – Cuff. Photography: Yoshi Okamoto.

chanel 7

Chanel – Necklace and Earrings. Photography: Yoshi Okamoto.

chanel 9

Chanel – Necklace, Choker and Earrings. Photography: Yoshi Okamoto.

michael kors

Michael Kors – Choker.michael kors 3

Michael Kors – Choker.

michael kors 2

Michael Kors – Cuff.

burberry prorsum

Burberry Prorsum – Bejewelled Knit.

lela rose 2

Lela Rose – Bejewelled Shirt.

matthew williamson

Matthew Williamson – Bejewelled Shirt.

fendi

Fendi – Necklace.

just cavalli

Just Cavalli – Neckpiece.

josie natori

Josie Natori – Necklace.

versus jw anderson 2

Versus Versace J.W. Anderson – Tiara. Photography: Jonas Gustavsson / Gorunway

lanvin

Lanvin – Collar and Necklace. Photography: Dominique Maitre.

givenchy

Givenchy – Necklace.

emporio armani 3

Giorgio Armani – Earrings.emporio armani 2

Giorgio Armani – Cuff.

giorgio armani

Giorgio Armani – Earrings.

derek lam

Derek Lam – Necklace.

maiyet

Maiyet – Cuffs.

altuzarra

Altuzarra – Necklace. Photography: Simon Cave.

ralph lauren 3

Ralph Lauren – Necklace. Photography: Jonas Gustavsson / Gorunway.

ralph lauren 2

Ralph Lauren – Neckpiece. Photography: Jonas Gustavsson / Gorunway.proenza schouler

Proenza Schouler – Neckpiece.

marni

Marni – Neclace.

moschino cheap and chic 2

Moschino Cheap and Chic – Earrings.

moschino

Moschino – Necklace.

missoni

Missoni – Bangle.

oscar de la renta 3

Oscar de La Renta – Necklace.

oscar de la renta 4

Oscar de la Renta – Earrings and Necklace.

tory burch

Tory Burch – Necklace.

jean paul gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier – Necklaces.

roberto cavalli 1

Roberto Cavalli – Necklace.

roberto cavalli 3

Roberto Cavalli – Necklace, Earrings.

roberto cavalli 4

Roberto Cavalli – Necklace, Earrings.

roberto cavalli 2

Roberto Cavalli – Bracelet, Ring.

roberto cavalli 6

Roberto Cavalli – Cuff.

roberto cavalli 5

Roberto Cavalli – Necklace, Earrings.

vionnet

Vionnet – Bracelet.

Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent – Bracelet.

saint laurent 2

Saint Laurent – Bracelet.

dsquared2

Dsquared2 – Earrings, Necklace.

dsquared2 b

CREDITS: all photos via Style.com and WWD.com and provided by the designers and brands unless otherwise stated.

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